Water-Damaged Cabinet Replacement in Los Angeles, CA

Signs of a leak under the sink cabinet

Cabinet damage often goes unnoticed because the leak is behind a closed door. Look for:

• A cabinet floor that feels soft, bowed or crumbly when pressed
• Swollen or bubbled edges on the cabinet bottom, side panels or toe kick
• Water stains or a white mineral line on the cabinet floor
• Doors that no longer close evenly because the box has swelled
• A musty smell when the door opens, or dark spots at the back corner
• Peeling laminate or thermofoil on the bottom edge of doors

Check the neighboring dishwasher opening and the floor at the toe kick too, since the same leak often reaches both.

Where sink-base leaks usually come from

• Angle-stop valves and faucet connections crusted with mineral scale from hard Southern California water.
• Garbage disposal flanges and slip-joint drain nuts that loosen with vibration.
• Reverse-osmosis filter tanks and tubing fitted inside the sink base.
• Dishwasher drain hoses that crack or slip off where they run through the cabinet side.

Should the leak be fixed and dried first?

Always. A plumber repairs the supply line, drain or appliance connection; then the area behind and under the cabinet has to dry, because the wall and floor behind a sink base are often wetter than the cabinet itself. Installing a new box over a damp wall traps moisture and invites mold.

Mold under a sink cabinet is common after a long leak. The U.S. EPA’s mold guidance suggests that small areas may be cleaned by a homeowner, while larger growth, or growth inside walls, calls for a professional. Adcom does not do mold remediation or drying; the showroom’s work begins when the space is clean and dry.

Permits and the licenses to check

Swapping a damaged cabinet for a new one in the same spot, with the sink and drain where they were, is normally finish work without a permit. Relocating the sink, adding a dishwasher circuit or repairing rotted framing behind the cabinet is not: LADBS handles those permits in the City of Los Angeles, and other cities and LA County Building & Safety handle their own areas. CSLB’s C-6 license covers cabinet and millwork installers and C-36 covers the plumber; check both at cslb.ca.gov before work begins.

Can swollen particleboard cabinets be repaired?

Rarely. Particleboard and MDF absorb water, swell and lose the strength to hold screws, and they do not shrink back. Plywood holds up better and can sometimes be saved with a new cabinet floor.

Replacing one kitchen cabinet without redoing the kitchen

A single sink base can usually be replaced while the rest of the kitchen stays. The plumbing is disconnected, the countertop is supported or lifted, the old box is cut out, and the new one is slid in, leveled and fastened. With an undermount sink, the sink is attached to the counter, so removal takes more care; sometimes the counter has to come off and be reset, which adds risk with older stone. The installer will assess this before work starts.

1. 1

   Measure the opening

   Width, height, depth and toe-kick height of the damaged cabinet, plus photos of the door and drawer front.

2. 2

   Match at the showroom

   Bring an undamaged door to compare door style, species and finish with current lines.

3. 3

   Order the box and fronts

   Confirm sizes and ask for the expected arrival window.

4. 4

   Disconnect and remove

   Plumbing is disconnected and the counter is supported while the old box comes out.

5. 5

   Install and reconnect

   The new cabinet is leveled and fastened, then plumbing is reconnected and checked for drips.

Matching water damaged cabinets in Los Angeles homes to existing doors

Cabinet lines on display come in many colors and box sizes, with maple, cherry, oak, hickory, thermofoil and painted finishes, which gives a good chance of a close match. Exact matches are harder for older kitchens: wood darkens with sunlight, painted colors drift, and a door style may no longer be made. When the match is not close enough, options include replacing all the doors on the damaged wall, or refacing the whole kitchen so new and old look the same. See cabinet refacing and door styles and finishes.

Cabinet floor replacement and preventing the next leak

• Choose plywood for the sink base, even in an otherwise standard kitchen; it resists swelling far better than particleboard.
• Line the cabinet floor with a waterproof sink-base mat that holds small drips.
• Replace old supply lines with braided lines and check shutoff valves; a plumber can do this when reconnecting.
• Add a leak sensor under the sink and dishwasher for an early warning.
• Look under the sink monthly, especially after a dishwasher or garbage disposal is replaced.

What changes the cost of replacing water-damaged cabinets?

• How many boxes are ruined: a lone sink base costs far less than every lower cabinet along a wet wall.
• Door matching: a current line that matches your doors keeps the job small; a discontinued style may mean new fronts across the kitchen.
• The countertop: stone tops are supported or lifted while the box is swapped, and a cracked top has to be replaced.
• Box material: a plywood sink base costs a little more than particleboard but resists the next leak far better.
• Floor under the cabinet: if the floor runs beneath the boxes, flooring repairs are added to the job.
• Finishing touches: toe kicks, fillers, end panels and new hardware to tie old and new together.

Why Adcom for leak-damaged cabinets

• Many colors and sizes of local and imported cabinetry, which helps match an existing kitchen.
• Cabinets and floors together when the leak reached both.
• Counters and sinks on display if the top or sink must be replaced too.
• Installation on request, or supply for your own contractor.

Cabinet replacements come from Studio City, Van Nuys and other parts of Los Angeles, Burbank, Glendale and Santa Clarita. Our post on what to do when a kitchen leak damages floors and cabinets covers the first steps.